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Fence Calculator

Fence Removal Cost Calculator

Estimate demolition labor, haul-away truck fees, and dumpster rental costs to tear out old wood, chain link, or vinyl fencing.

Fence removal & disposal cost

Enter your measurements and the result updates as you type.

Overview

Replacing an old fence begins with tearing down and disposing of the existing structure. Demolition costs depend heavily on the material: lightweight chain link is fast to roll up, while heavy wood posts encased in concrete footings require jackhammers and dumpsters.

This calculator provides realistic budget ranges for demolition labor, debris hauling, and roll-off dumpster rentals based on your linear footage and fence type.

Assumptions

  • Tear-out labor rates reflect national contractor averages based on fence material difficulty.
  • Dumpster option includes a standard 15-yard roll-off container suitable for up to 200 feet of residential wood fencing.
  • Concrete footing removal includes extracting the buried concrete collar with each post.
  • Range outputs provide a 15 percent low-to-high variance for regional disposal fees and site accessibility.

Common mistakes

  • Assuming concrete post footings can be left in the ground when new posts must occupy the exact same property line locations.
  • Underestimating the massive weight of waterlogged wood and concrete chunks, exceeding municipal pickup limits.
  • Failing to locate underground gas and electrical utilities before digging out deep concrete balls with a backhoe.
  • Overpaying for dumpster rentals when local scrap metal recyclers often pick up old chain link pipe and wire for free.

In-depth guides

Buying guide

Tearing out an old fence is its own project with its own cost curve, and it is easy to underprice because the visible work, pulling pickets and rails, is the fast part. The real cost driver is what is buried: post footings set in concrete do not come out with a pry bar, and this fence removal cost calculator keyword separates demolition labor from hauling and disposal so each piece can be checked against a contractor's line items. Removal is one step in a larger replacement budget, and once the old fence is down the fence cost calculator picks up the material and labor math for whatever goes up next, with every related cost tool gathered under the cost calculators hub. Treating removal and the new build as a single lump sum is how the tear-out cost quietly disappears into a quote that nobody can actually check, especially on a job with more buried concrete than the photos from the street ever suggest.

Material is the single biggest swing in removal difficulty and cost. A wood privacy fence, sized out originally with something like the privacy fence calculator or the general wood fence calculator, usually means more posts per linear foot and therefore more concrete footings to dig out than a chain link run built around the wider post spacing a chain link fence calculator would plan for. Chain link tends to be the fastest material to remove: the fabric rolls up, the top rail unscrews, and the main labor is still the posts, while a solid wood privacy fence adds the weight and volume of every picket and rail stacked on top of that same post problem, which is why wood tear-out quotes tend to run higher per foot than chain link ones. Vinyl sits closer to wood than chain link on removal difficulty, since it still relies on the same buried post and footing structure underneath the panels.

Whether old concrete footings can stay in the ground is the first decision that shapes the whole job. If the new fence follows the exact same post layout, which is common when a property line has not changed, every footing has to come out completely so the new post can occupy that spot, and that is the labor intensive part of the job: each concrete collar can run well over a hundred pounds and often needs a jack, hoist or small excavator rather than hand digging. If the new layout shifts even slightly, cutting the old post off at grade and leaving the buried concrete in place is a legitimate shortcut that skips that entire step. Either way, matching the dumpster size to the actual volume, not just the linear footage, avoids paying for a second haul partway through the job, since a dumpster that fills up on day one with wet, heavy debris stalls the whole schedule.

Disposal has rules that do not show up in a simple per foot price. Pressure treated lumber should never be burned, since the preservative chemicals in the wood turn into hazardous ash and fumes, and it needs to go to an authorized landfill instead of a brush pile or a backyard fire. Chain link fabric and galvanized pipe, by contrast, have real scrap value, and many local metal recyclers will take them for free or pay a small amount, which is worth checking before paying a dumpster company to haul away material a scrap yard would collect for nothing. Utility locates are the other step that is easy to skip and expensive to skip wrong: calling before digging out a deep concrete footing is standard practice anywhere a backhoe or auger might hit a buried gas or electrical line, and it is a step worth building into the schedule rather than treating as optional paperwork.

Removal labor is one of the clearest DIY versus contractor decisions in the whole fence project, since the work is more physical than technical: two people can usually strip pickets and rails off a hundred foot run in an afternoon, but pulling a dozen or more concrete footings by hand is a full day of heavy labor on its own. The DIY vs contractor installed fence guide and the broader wood fence cost guide both help frame that tradeoff against the price of renting a jack or mini excavator for a weekend instead of borrowing a neighbor's tools and hoping for the best. For the fuller picture of tear-out, hauling and disposal end to end, the fence removal and disposal guide is the long form reference, and the fence cost guide covers what typically comes next once the old fence is gone and a new budget starts taking shape, ideally before the old fence has already been hauled away and the decision has to be made in a hurry.

Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost per foot to remove an old fence?

Contractors typically charge $3 to $5 per linear foot for chain link, $5 to $10 per foot for wood privacy fencing, and $6 to $10 per foot for vinyl fencing including concrete footings.

What is the hardest part of tearing down an old fence?

Digging out the heavy concrete footings around old posts. Each concrete ball can weigh 150 to 300 pounds and often requires a farm jack, engine hoist, or mini excavator.

Can old fence posts be cut off at ground level instead of removed?

Only if your new fence posts will be placed in completely new locations. If new posts follow the exact same layout, every old concrete footing must be completely removed.

What size dumpster is needed for 150 feet of wood privacy fence?

A 15-yard or 20-yard roll-off dumpster is recommended for 150 feet of 6-foot wood privacy fence and its concrete footings.

Can old chain link fencing be recycled?

Yes. Galvanized steel pipe and chain link mesh have scrap metal value. Many local metal recyclers accept them for free or pay a nominal scrap rate.

Can pressure-treated wood fencing be burned?

Never burn pressure-treated wood. The chemical preservatives release toxic chemical ash and fumes. It must be disposed of in an authorized municipal landfill.

How long does it take to tear down 100 feet of fence DIY?

Two people can dismantle pickets and rails in 2 to 3 hours, but pulling out 13 concrete post footings by hand typically takes a full day of heavy labor.

Do fence contractors include old fence removal in their new fence quote?

Most fence contractors list tear-out and hauling as a separate line item on their quote. Always clarify whether concrete footing removal is included.