支柱の深さ計算ツール
凍結線と地上部分の高さから、支柱の埋込みの深さを求めます。角の支柱が持ち、冬の凍結に押し上げられない深さです。
Fence Calculator
仕様を入力してください。結果はリアルタイムに更新され、式も表示されます。
概要
支柱が据えたまま動かないのは、埋込みが2つの条件を同時に満たしているためです。1つは凍結による隆起が働く凍結線、もう1つは従来の経験則である地上部分の高さの3分の1以上です。
この計算ツールは地元の凍結深さと支柱の高さを受け取り、その2つの内の大きい方を満たす推奨深さを1つ返します。浅く埋めた支柱が冬に浮かないようにするためです。
前提条件
- Depth is the larger of the frost-line requirement and one third of the above-ground post height.
- The frost line is supplied by the user from a local lookup table or building department.
- A frost-depth input already includes the commonly recommended few extra inches of clearance below the frost line.
よくある間違い
- 高さに関係なくすべての支柱を同じ深さにすること。高さ4フィートの支柱と8フィートの支柱では、高さの3分の1にあたる埋込みが変わります。
- 凍結線を無視してどこでも24インチという固定の値を使うこと。凍結の起きやすい地盤では通用しません。
- 角の支柱と門の支柱を小さく見積もること。張力と門の荷重を受けるので、より深く広い基礎が必要になることが多くあります。
フェンス計算の式
計算機が走らせる同じ数式を、平たく。ブラックボックスはありません。
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スパン数
sections = max(ceil(effective run / post spacing), 1)
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柱数
posts = (sections + 1) along the run, minus named corner and end posts already placed, plus 2 gate posts per gate
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有効延長
effective run = total length - sum of gate widths
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横木数
total rails = sections x rails per section
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ピケット数
pickets = ceil(run in inches / (picket width + gap)); total = ceil(raw x (1 + waste %))
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Board-on-Boardのピッチ
pitch = picket width - 1 inch overlap
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パネル数
full panels = floor(run / panel width); add 1 cut panel if the remainder is over 0.01 ft; total = ceil(raw x (1 + waste %))
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コンクリート量
per-hole = pi x (diameter / 2)^2 x depth; total = per-hole x posts; bags = ceil(total / bag yield)
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勾配調整長
slope run = effective run / cos(atan(slope % / 100)); shown alongside, counts use the flat run
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費用
materials = (posts x post price + rails x rail price + infill x unit price + 60 lb bags x bag price) x regional multiplier; labor = effective run x labor per ft x terrain multiplier x regional multiplier; installed total = materials + gate hardware + removal + permit + labor
計算機が示す数字はすべて、これらの式にあなたの入力を当てた結果です。
次のステップ
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The fence post depth calculator settles one question that two separate rules of thumb both claim to answer: the one-third rule, which ties embedment to the post's above-ground height, and the frost line rule, which ties embedment to how deep the ground freezes in your climate. A post that only satisfies one of the two can still fail. Set a short post deep enough for frost but shallow relative to its height, and it can rack under wind load; set a tall post at a depth that ignores frost, and the ground itself can heave it out of plumb over a hard winter. This calculator takes both inputs, your post height and your local frost depth, and returns whichever of the two embedment requirements is larger, so the number on screen already accounts for both failure modes rather than just one. Depth also interacts with hole diameter indirectly: a deeper hole with the same diameter holds proportionally more concrete, so the depth number from this page is the first input the footing volume calculators downstream actually need.
Frost depth is the input most people get wrong, mainly because it is a local number rather than a universal constant. It increases with latitude and elevation in general terms, but the only reliable source for your specific address is a published county or state frost-depth table or a call to the local building department, since the same state can span a meaningful range of frost depths from one county to the next. Soil type changes the practical picture too: sandy or well-drained soil is more forgiving of a slightly shallow footing than dense clay that holds water against the post base through a freeze-thaw cycle. Before you dig at all, the 811 and utility locate guide covers the separate, mandatory step of having underground utilities marked, which has nothing to do with frost depth but matters just as much before the first hole goes in.
Post height is the more predictable half of the equation, since it is a measurement you already have rather than a regional lookup. The one-third rule means a 6 foot post wants roughly 24 inches of embedment from height alone, and an 8 foot post wants roughly 32 inches, before frost depth is even considered. Taller posts used for privacy screens or pool enclosures push embedment further still, and the calculator scales the recommendation linearly with whatever height you enter rather than capping it at a residential default. The 6 foot post depth guide and the post spacing guide both work from the same underlying assumptions this calculator uses, so reading them alongside the calculator output is a reasonable way to sanity check the number before you commit to a dig depth, especially at gate and corner posts where the rule is treated as a floor rather than a target.
Depth is only one half of a footing; diameter and volume are the other half, and they come from a different tool. Once you have the depth from this page, the fence post concrete calculator turns depth plus hole diameter into a per-post bag count, or the concrete bags calculator does the same across a full set of holes at once. Where soil conditions favor drainage over rigidity, the gravel calculator gives the equivalent volume in stone instead of mix. All three steps, hole count from the fence post calculator, depth from this page, and fill material from whichever of the concrete or gravel tools fits your soil, are covered together in the post depth and setting guide, and the rest of the foundation tools live under the foundation calculators category.
Regional frost maps are a starting point, not a substitute for a local check, because frost depth can vary within a single county depending on elevation, soil moisture and exposure. Many building departments publish a minimum footing depth specifically for structures in their jurisdiction, and that local number should be treated as the floor when it is available rather than a national average pulled from a general map. Sloped yards add a wrinkle to depth planning as well: on a hillside the embedment depth itself does not change, but digging straight down from a sloped grade means the uphill side of a hole can look shallower than the downhill side if the excavation is not leveled off consistently before measuring. Frost heave risk is also not uniform across a single fence line: a shaded, consistently damp corner of a yard can hold more moisture and freeze more severely than a sunny, well-drained stretch a few yards away, which is one reason some installers deliberately over-embed posts in the wettest part of a lot even when the calculated minimum would technically be enough everywhere else. None of these local variables can be built into a single calculator input, which is exactly why the frost depth field here is meant to be filled from a real local source rather than a guess.
よくある質問
高さ6フィートの支柱はどのくらい深く据えるべきですか
3分の1の目安では、地上部分に対して約24インチの埋込みです。凍結線がそれより深い地域ではさらに深くします。この計算ツールは目安と入力した凍結深さの大きい方を返すので、凍結の深い地域では30インチ以上になることがあります。
支柱の深さの計算式は何ですか
2つの値の大きい方を取ります。地元の凍結深さと、地上部分の支柱の高さの3分の1です。それがこの計算ツールが表示する推奨値で、片方だけを満たしてももう片方が原因で支柱が動くためです。
地元の凍結線はどこで調べればよいですか
米国の郡や市の凍結深さの表は、建設部門や工学的機関が公開しています。よく引用される目安は、凍結深さが緯度と標高に応じて増えるというものです。この計算ツールはその数値を入力として受け取るので、お住まいの住所について当地の建物確認の担当者に確認してください。
支柱の高さは深さを変えますか
はい、3分の1の則りです。8フィートの支柱は凍結の条件を無視しても約32インチの埋込みが必要で、6フィートなら24インチです。だからここでも高さの入力が深さの推奨値を動かします。
支柱は深いほど必ず良いのですか
実際は深くするほうが保持には安全ですが、コンクリートの1袋と支柱の長さが増えるたびに費用も上がり、埋めすぎると地下の設備や岩にぶつかります。凍結線と高さの3分の1を下限として、角と門だけは意図的にさらに深くします。
コンクリートで固定しても支柱は凍結線より下に入れる必要がありますか
はい。コンクリートは凍結を止めません。周囲の土が凍って隆起すると、凍結深さより上に据えた基礎は土と一緒に持ち上がります。この計算ツールで凍結線を下限にしているのは、まさにその理由です。
門の支柱に3分の1の目安は安全ですか
良い出発点ですが、それで終わりではありません。門の支柱は開閉する扉のヒンジ荷重と張力を受け、門のメーカーはより深い埋込み、さらにコンクリートの襟を求めることもあります。3分の1は最低基準と考え、門と角の支柱は一段大きくします。
深さのルールと穴の直径のルールは何が違いますか
深さとはコンクリートの基礎が地表より下のどこまで行くか、直径とはどれだけ太いかです。穴の直径は一般に支柱幅の3倍という目安があります。この計算ツールは深さの下限を決め、その直径と深さから生じる体積は支柱のコンクリート計算ツールが扱います。